Each year in December, Pereira and many of the surrounding pueblos kickstart the holidays with special activities and festivals. Come along with us as we show you the Christmas Traditions of Pereira. We are going to take you inside the culture and reveal the Paisa Christmas to our readers.
Christmas Traditions of Pereira
Pereira is the capital of the Coffee Region of Colombia and the “Paisa” culture. This is a culture that has always remained very close and conscious to their agrarian roots. Paisas consider themselves to be descended from the Spanish lords and the serfs who helped conquer the country. Paisas are very European in complexion and traditional in culture. They are predominantly Catholic and often known as being somewhat politically conservative. On the other hand, Pereira has always been a bit more Liberal culturally and politically.
Paisas are famous for being business savvy, but also of having very large families. To a Paisa, family is everything. At the end of the day, regardless of what “barbaridades“, or treachery which have ensued, the family stays together. This has led to large family owned businesses which are today major corporations and players in the financial world of Colombia. Pereira is also a natural cross roads between Bogota, Medellin and Cali, which leads to a strong commerce and has given fame to the Paisas as being very astute business men, and women.
At the end of the day, regardless of what “barbaridades“, or treachery which have ensued, the family stays together.
At Christmastime, the Paisa tradition comes out to it’s very fullest as families and neighborhoods, or barrios, unite in dancing and parties. The people go home to the family farms that every Paisa family collective, has cared for and retained through the years.
La Lumbrada
According to the Alcaldia, or Mayor’s office, Pereira has more than 6 million bulbs and an impressive 127 kilometers of light strands decorating Pereira in the 2016 Christmas season. All the major plazas in the center and the Viaducto are all beautifully lit up.
Dating back to Catholic church traditions, “la lumbrada“, or celebration of lights, is also known as Dia de las Velas, or Day of the Candles. It’s a very important part of the celebrations that happen on December 7th & 8th in Pereira, which in turn lead into the celebrations called “novenas.”
The original “Lantern Lighting” tradition comes form the rituals of the Catholic religion, where a candle is burned for the Virgin Mary on the eve of her “Immaculate Conception.” In Colombia, this is celebrated in all the cities and pueblos by lighting candles on doorsteps and decorated lantern in the streets.
The most famous pueblo in the Coffee Region for “lumbrada,” or Lighting, is Quimbaya, Quindo. Here you will find a famous lantern lighting celebration that is famed for being very elaborate, colorful and beautiful.
In Pereira, a new festival was celebrated on December 7th, The Festival of Natilla. At this festival you could try the many varieties of Natilla and buñuelos which are to be had in this region.
Natilla and Buñuelos
A cornerstone of Colombian Mountain tradition (Los Paisas), is the preparation and enjoyment of natilla and buñuelos during the month of December and even over into January.
Natilla, is a pudding made of either corn or rice, panela (or brown sugar), cinnamon, milk, and some grated coconut. It is a holiday favorite and served at parties and gatherings throughout the month of December. If you are especially fortunate, you will find “Natilla Campesina” or the natilla made over wood fires by the country farm dwellers using old world artisan techniques.
Buñuelos are the natural complement to Natilla. Basically, they are a ball of dough that has been deep fried. Typically made from white flour, there is also a special farm tradition for this food as well. In the countryside, buñuelos are typically made from the tuber Yucca, and taste even better than city buñuelos.
The “Novena” Tradition
This tradition dates back to the catholic church, and is based on the advent calendar. And, of course, Colombians love to party, so naturally they have shaped it into a unique cultural celebration.
In Pereira and the Coffee Region, families take turns hosting novena celebrations at their houses on different days which are agreed upon. Each celebration starts with music and “villancicos,” or Christmas carols. Then once everyone is present, the “Novena” prayer, also referred to as a mass, is said together or in turns. The family then celebrates after by singing Christmas carols and eating dessert or finger foods. This can happen many times in December depending on how many extended relatives there are.
Among friends, the tradition to have a novena is celebrated with progressive house parties, much like the ones observed in the US, during this same month. They might be Catholic, or secular parties with desserts and drinks.
Here is what one Pereira native has to say about the Novena tradition:
“I like the novenas and Christmas songs. I like that you breathe in an environment of love and peace. It is such a special feeling.” ~ Lina, local resident.
Pesebre de Colombia
In Colombian Spanish, a Pesebre stands for “Nativity Scene.”
Traditionally, they were constructed using natural materials from the forest or jungle including sticks and moss which were harvested by hand. However, due to climate change and over saturation of people taking out moss and other delicate organisms, the Colombian government outlawed the practice. Today, you can still find Pesebres made from traditional materials, or even hand carved wood, plastic and/or paper mâché.
The Paisas are very proud of their Pesebre’s and visitors will find them on grand display in malls, churches and restaurants/cafe’s. Many are carefully constructed by students, local groups or purchased. Some even feature animation with moving parts, sounds and lights.
Barrio Fiestas
One tradition that many visitors often miss in their hurry to see the sights, are the “barrio fiestas” or neighborhood parties. In Pereira, especially in the lower strata, neighbors, and families, will bring all their chairs out into the streets. They slaughter pigs in the streets, and later they have a big meal with much dancing. According to one Pereira native, named Devyi:
“En Navidad, hey un fenomino interesante. Que la gente bailan. En este mes, incluso los que no bailan nunca, bailan.” At Christmas time, there is an interesting phenomenon. That the people dance. This month, even those who never dance, dance. ~ Devyi, local resident.
During these parties the neighboorhoods also prepare arroz con leche, buñuelos and natilla, lechona and fritanga:
- Arroz con Leche: Rice with milk and raisins.
- Lechona: A whole pig is skinned. The meat is chopped up, rice, potato and spices are added, then all it put back into the pig carcass and cooked all day in a fire pit or smokehouse.
- Fritanga: Pig or chicken organs which are chopped up a bit and fried with eggs. Could be just the organs all fried together in one pan also, without the eggs. Don’t even get grossed out, just try it! You might discover that you like it!
Christmas Eve & Christmas Day in Pereira
And the most important, of all the December events, are the Christmas Eve/Christmas Day celebrations of Pereira.
The 24th of December:
- Colombia: The baby Jesus is born @ Midnight. This is when children traditionally open their gifts. and typically allowed to stay up all night.
- Often families will gather and kill a pig, on either the 24th or 25th.
- In Catholic families, midnight mass is observed, and then go home to open presents and/or party till morning.
The 25th of December:
- The day is spent either at home with family, or out at the family farm with extended family until after the first of the year.
- Catholic families will attend mass in the morning, if they didn’t attend the midnight mass, or even both.
- Typically sancocho, is prepared on this day if the pig has already been killed. Sancocho is a very famous Colombian soup that is from this region. It can contain pork, beef, chicken, or a combination. Also, broth, potatoes, plantain, yucca and cilantro. Served with arepa, or corn cake, banana or avocado, and fresh fruit juice.
New Years Eve and New Years Day
If there is Christmas, then of course New Years Eve is guaranteed to arrive quickly thereafter.
New Years in Colombia is filled with fun and family. It is a time to once again gather in family, but it is much more vibrant, borderline extreme party atmosphere than Christmas. Here is the Colombian New Year tradition. Follow the order of these events carefully:
- Once again, if you are from a Catholic family, then mass must be performed. Mass will happen around 10:00 pm. This can begin a very dangerous time to be walking in the streets as church goers rush home to be with their families following mass.
- Midnight with family. In Colombia, you welcome the Year in family THEN go party. Together the family gathers and turns on the radio for the countdown hour. Finally the moment arrives. At midnight, everyone screams HAPPY NEW YEAR and hugs.
- Party Time! The nightclubs don’t open until midnight in many cases and the party goes until 3 or 4 am, and in some outlying barrios and pueblos, it will even go till late morning.
“El Ano Viejo” – Burning of the Straw Man
A yearly tradition at midnight on New Years Eve burns an effigy of a man which is filled with all the negative outcomes of the previous year. It is a letting go. A cleaning out of old things, past events and suffering. A welcoming celebration for the new year and new opportunities.
The straw man is usually a mannequin or scare crow type of figure created by filling old clothes with straw. In some rural areas fireworks or firecrackers might even be included for some extra pop! Families burn them in the streets or farms as soon as midnight strikes.
New Years Eve Augueros, or Superstitions:
- Eat 12 grapes at midnight and you will be granted one wish!
- Put lentils in a shirt, pants pocket, or hold in your hand as you cross over into the new year for abundance.
- Ensure you have money in your pocket to bring wealth in the new year.
- At midnight you must take a suitcase and run quickly around the manzana, or city/neighborhood block to bring travel and adventures into your life.
- Wear yellow underwear for good luck. Most common for women, but men also practice this superstition too.
Conclusion
Latin American Christmas Traditions of Pereira are colorful, festive and full of life energy. You see it in the streets as cities become very busy. It is a time to set aside the problems and hard feelings, and rejuvenate for a fresh new year of opportunities. Traditions are practiced and gifts are given. Colombia is a beautiful place to be if you are longing for a tropical Christmas with a different flow. We hope you don’t mind not having to shovel your front porch, or wear extra layers.
But remember, always notify your friends or family of where you plan to celebrate. And, do not drive or get in a car with anyone under the influence of alcohol or drugs. In case of emergency dial #123 to reach the local emergency responder in Pereira.
Merry Christmas to all, and to all a Happy New Year too!